Pulled Pork

You don't need a pitmaster-approved smoking setup to impart those unmistakable flavors to tender meat, Genevieve Ko writes.

After an hour or two, you can transfer the pork to a Dutch oven and pour in a half-inch of water, stock, soda or cider, slipping in onions or garlic if you like. You also can skip outdoor smoking altogether and leave the pork in the oven from start to finish. That it can take as little as half an hour of your attention or become a leisurely day cooking outside is just another reason to make it anytime you want. It takes time for the meat to soften, but the energy and hours you put in can range widely. The rest of us may not be able to capture the woodsy nuances of pit-smoked pork, but anyone can prepare and share the joy that is pulled pork. Watching the cooks kindle the embers, mop racks of ribs with sauce and turn enormous sides of meat, it quickly became clear that true whole hog barbecue is best left to pitmasters.